Fukushima is a prefecture known around the world for the unfortunate events of the 2011 earthquake and tsunami—including its effects on the area’s nuclear power plant—but there’s so much more to this region than you’ve seen or read about…
Located in Tohoku, a nature-rich region on the northern end of Japan’s main island (Honshu), Fukushima is the closest prefecture within this area to Tokyo. It is also Japan’s third-largest prefecture, giving it plenty of space to impress tourists with scenes, sights, and flavorful specialties they weren’t expecting, like its natural beauty—ranging from striking in-land mountain peaks to relaxing coastlines—historical sites, hot springs, high-quality sake, and more waiting to be discovered in between.
In southeastern Fukushima, bordering the Pacific Ocean, is the city of Iwaki. Due to its waterside location, it is home to a variety of high-quality seafood, including fish such as flounder and flatfish, as well as unique species like the deep-sea mehikari green-eyed fish— unique ingredients that are putting the prefecture on the map for positive reasons, helping the community keep swimming towards recovery and beyond.
What is nikogori jellied fish?
Have you ever heard of nikogori jellied fish? Jellied fish may have you hesitating at first, but nikogori—a jelly-like dish made by setting meat or fish inside a flavorful collagen-rich broth in a jelly-like state—are popular, especially in areas bordering the coast of the Joban (常磐) region, which spans the Fukushima, Miyagi, and Ibaraki prefectures.
This traditional Japanese dish consists of a flavorful jellied broth, often made from boiled fish and gelatin. Best enjoyed over warm rice or alongside other fresh dishes, jellied fish has a tender, melt-in-your-mouth texture, with a flavor that’s been perfectly preserved from the coast to your chopsticks.
Onozaki, said to be one of the largest fishmongers in Fukushima Prefecture, who we’ll introduce shortly, is especially well-versed in this particular dish, offering a jellied variety of many local catches, including:
- Flatfish
- Conger eel
- Monkfish
- Anglerfish
- Red ray
- Sea bream
Once you’re used to this unique style of serving the region’s freshest seafood, you can start to explore its different pairings and serving styles. Naturally bursting with flavor, the most traditional—and simplest—way of savoring jellied fish is as-is, served over fluffy, warm rice and basking in the pure Fukushima-caught flavors. However, it’s also becoming a trend among younger generations to mix it into pasta dishes or pair it with a sprinkle of olive oil and a glass of white wine, adding a contemporary elegance to the dish.
What is mehikari green-eyed fish?
Another of Fukushima’s local delicacies is mehikari, a small, deep-sea fish with large, glowing green eyes—it’s this feature that the fish takes its name from, after the Japanese for "shining eyes." Often discovered off the coasts of Fukushima Prefecture, its deep-sea habitat of between 200-700 meters make it difficult to catch, transforming it into a rare ingredient in Japanese cuisine.
Despite this rarity, it remains inexpensive for two reasons. Firstly, its small size meant that it was historically eaten by fishermen, and wasn’t widely recognized as a delicacy. Secondly, the fish loses its freshness relatively quickly, so rapid local distribution—more difficult centuries, or even decades ago—meant that it was largely limited to regions closest to the coast.
These days, however, it is widely enjoyed by many people as an affordable, yet tasty, seafood. With its light, flaky white flesh and rich flavor, it is savored in relatively simple dishes that allow the pure ingredients to shine, served as sashimi, deep-fried karaage fried chicken, or himono dried mehikari. It is also said that dried mehikari and dried yanagimushigarei—a premium flounder known as a willow flounder that’s also caught along the Joban coast—pair perfectly with sake, with the izakaya bars of Tokyo often serving it in just this way.
Once more, Onozaki, said to be one of the largest fishmongers in Fukushima Prefecture, shows their passion and expertise in this area by collaborating with local sake breweries even during the product development stage, ensuring that their creations complement and are complemented by sake. Watch this space for a future of sake-worthy marinated fish…
Speaking of Onozaki, it’s time to meet the team and their initiatives!
Onozaki: The Future of Iwaki’s Seafood
Founded in 1923 in Iwaki, Fukushima, Onozaki is a century-old fishmonger. Over four generations, the company has evolved from a neighborhood seafood shop into one of Fukushima’s largest fresh-fish retailers, driven by a passion for Joban-mono — the prized fish of the Joban coast.
As they mark their 100th anniversary, Onozaki remains committed to protecting and promoting the local seafood tradition. Their guiding philosophy is clear: “Our mission is to bring out these treasures and organically connect them, creating a beautiful harmony in the region, thereby protecting and developing its individuality.”
For all items that Onozaki produces in-house, they exclusively use fish caught off the coast of Fukushima, including those caught in the renowned Joban coastal waters. Serving the locals with pride and a warm welcome, they offer only the freshest fish brimming with flavor—something you can experience firsthand at their in-store restaurant.
Onozaki’s restaurant, Shiome Shokudo (潮目食堂), offers a vibrant, market-style dining experience where you can enjoy donburi rice bowls, generous set meals, and freshly prepared seafood. Each dish highlights the flavors of the Joban coast, crafted with care and seasonal catches. With a laid-back atmosphere, it’s the perfect place to taste Iwaki’s signature specialties.
Alongside their in-store restaurant—serving an ever-changing variety of seasonal dishes—Onozaki also organizes and runs events designed to educate, entertain, and connect the community. Among these events, some highlights include hiyama (bonito seared over burning straw), the traditional anko no tsurushi-giri monkfish hanging and skinning event, shrimp scooping for kids, and sake and fresh fish pairing events. This isn't just a fishmonger—it's a place to meet and connect.
Finally, bring home more than memories with Onozaki’s online store, featuring Onozaki Originals like gourmet gifts, nutrient-rich baby food, and preserved seafood. Whether for yourself or as a thoughtful gift, their carefully curated lineup lets you savor the spirit of Iwaki and share its coastal heritage with loved ones.
Must-visit spots in Iwaki, Fukushima
Put that shrimp net down—it's time to explore more of Iwaki!
Iwaki Lalamew Roadside Station
Located on the Onahama waterfront, Roadside Station Iwaki La La Mew is a breezy, all-weather complex celebrating the best of Iwaki. Inside, you’ll find a lively fish market, an indoor BBQ area, souvenir shops, seafood restaurants, and a play zone, all under one roof.
The fish market boasts three pillars of excellence—freshness, selection, and value—and you can even haggle prices in an auction-like atmosphere. Its shopping zone offers local delicacies and fun mementos, while the dining area lets you savor seasonal seafood rice bowls with panoramic Pacific Ocean views.
Indulge in a vibrant kaisendon seafood bowl at one of Lalamew’s waterfront eateries, where generous bowls of seasonal sashimi are served over rice. As you dig in, large sightseeing boats drift in and out of Onahama Port just beyond the windows, adding a serene maritime rhythm to your meal. It’s a sensory treat—the warming flavors of Fukushima seafood paired with the gentle ebb and flow of the harbor.
To shop and savor by the portside waters at Iwaki Lalamew, catch the train to Izumi Station. From there, catch the Nishihara Izumi Yumoto-Koko Line bus from Platform 1 towards Nishihara and depart at Onagawabashi Bus Stop after around 13 minutes. It’s an 11-minute walk to the complex from there.
It’s also only a 16-minute walk from Iwaki Lalamew to our next stop: Fukushima Aquamarine!
Aquamarine Fukushima
Aquamarine Fukushima is a unique “environmental aquarium” designed to showcase marine life in habitats that closely resemble those found in nature. More than a traditional aquarium, it also functions as a research center dedicated to sustainability and ocean conservation. Its signature attraction is a pair of massive tanks stretching from the second to fourth floors, representing Shiome no Umi—the dynamic meeting point of the Kuroshio and Oyashio currents off the Fukushima coast.
One of the aquarium’s unique focuses is its long-running research on the ancient Coelacanth. In the Coelacanths exhibit, visitors can examine a rare anatomical specimen and view remarkable video footage of this elusive “living fossil,” gaining insight into one of the ocean’s most mysterious and evolutionarily significant species—all while a gigantic Coelacanth watches over you from the ceiling.
Visitors can stroll through a transparent tunnel surrounded by shimmering schools of sardines, skipjack tuna, and other native species. From the fourth floor, a tranquil botanical garden highlights the region’s diverse plant life, while an overhead viewing area reveals the astonishing scale of the main tank.
Younger guests can enjoy the hands-on program, where gentle starfish and small sea creatures await. Time your visit well and you may also catch the adorable otter feeding or the lively seal and sea-lion feeding sessions. Warning: You may never want to leave!
If you’re coming from Iwaki Lalamew after a hearty seafood lunch, it’s only a 16-minute walk to the splendor of Aquamarine Fukushima. However, if you’re coming from Izumi Station, head to the bus stop at the south exit for buses bound for Onahama and Ena. After around 10-15 minutes, get off at Aeon Mall Iwaki Onahama Bus Stop and walk for 5 minutes to reach the aquarium.
Ganjoji Temple
Shiramizu Amidado is the most celebrated structure within Iwaki’s Ganjoji Temple, and the only building in Fukushima Prefecture designated as a National Treasure. Constructed in 1160, during the late Heian period (approximately 1050–1185), the Amida-do Hall is traditionally attributed to Princess Tokuhime, daughter of Fujiwara no Kiyohira, who is believed to have built it in memory of her husband, the regional lord Iwaki Norimichi.
Its refined architecture—characterized by sweeping rooflines, delicate wooden detailing, and a harmonious sense of balance—reflects the elegance of late-Heian temple construction.
The hall is complemented by a beautifully preserved Jodo “Pure Land” garden, designed to evoke the Buddhist paradise. This rare pairing of Amida-do architecture and an intact Jodo garden makes Ganjoji especially significant, as few examples from this era survive in such complete forms. Inside, visitors can encounter the statues of the Amida Triad (Amida Nyorai, Kannon Bosatsu, and Seishi Bosatsu), as well as Mochikuni and Tamon Tenno—each designated as Important Cultural Properties.
The temple grounds change dramatically with the seasons: lotus flowers bloom across the pond in summer, while autumn brings breathtaking gradations of gold and crimson from ancient ginkgo and maple trees. During the fall illumination events, soft lighting and subtle projection mapping highlight the hall’s interior artistry and painted ceilings, creating an enchanting nighttime atmosphere.
Lose yourself in the spirituality of Ganjoji’s serene setting by catching the Iwaki Kawadaira Line bus from Platform 3 towards Kawadaira. After about 20 minutes, hop off at Amidado Bus Stop and walk for 10 minutes to reach Ganjoji Temple.
Bonus spots: Onahama Port & Iwaki Yumoto Onsen
Coming directly from the recommendations of locals is Onohama Port, located on the coast of Iwaki and looking out over the Pacific Ocean. Built in 1747, this port has been the gateway for rice payments in the Edo Period and coal in the Meiji era. Throughout it all, the scenery has remained beautiful and soothing for locals and tourists alike.
Another local recommendation is Iwaki Yumoto Onsen, thought to be one of the oldest hot springs in Japan. Rumor has it that this particular spring has been helping people to relax and rejuvenate with its skin-softening waters for around 1,000 years. After taking in the dramatic portside views, take a moment to soak in the tranquil waters of Fukushima's onsen.
Find new Fukushima stories
A visit to Fukushima is to walk amongst a region—and a people—who have been through so much, but come out of the other side with a warm welcome, generous spirit, and even more specialties worth shouting about. As safe as it is unique and humbling, Fukushima is all about trying new experiences and flavors while making space to honor and learn from the past.
From unexpectedly delicious jellied fish dishes and deep-sea delicacies like mehikari green-eyed fish to the fresh catches and heartwarming community events of Onozaki, Iwaki offers a trip that’s memorable for far more than the events you’ve seen on the news.
Discover more reasons to visit Fukushima and Japan’s stunning Tohoku region, such as a bounty of other seafood specialties and Iwaki’s kamaboko fish cakes.
